Taxonomy;

 

Class: Insecta 

Order: Mantodea

Family: Hymenopodidae

Genus: Croebroter

Species: gemmatus

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Origin;

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Across South and Southeast Asia, warm monsoon winds feed a patchwork of lush rainforests and sunlit shrublands—two habitats that shape the Jewelled Flower Mantis’ instinctive behaviours and care needs.

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In the tropical rainforests, towering trees weave a dense canopy that filters sunlight into soft, dappled greens. The air is warm and humid, drifting through layers of vines, ferns, and flowering plants. Here, bursts of colour from orchids and wild blossoms attract pollinating insects—perfect hunting grounds for a small, agile mantis that relies on speed and camouflage rather than brute strength.

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Move outward from the forest edge and the landscape opens into tropical shrublands: bright, breezy spaces filled with low vegetation, scattered bushes, and seasonal flowers. These areas offer more direct light, shifting humidity, and a constant buzz of small flying insects. It’s in these transitional zones that Creobroter gemmatus thrives—darting between leaves, perching on blooms, and using its ornate patterns to blend effortlessly with petals and foliage.

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Together, these habitats create a world that is warm, vibrant, and full of movement—a perfect match for a species known for its lively temperament, quick reflexes, and jewel‑like beauty.

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Description;

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A small, brilliantly patterned flower mantis native to South and Southeast Asia, Creobroter gemmatus is one of the most widespread and recognisable members of its genus. Its ornate wing markings—often resembling bright eyespots—give it exceptional camouflage among blossoms, where it waits motionless for unsuspecting prey.

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🧬 Taxonomic Details

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• Scientific name: Creobroter gemmatus

• Described by: Caspar Stoll, 1813

• Original name (basionym): Mantis gemmatus Stoll, 1813

• Family: Hymenopodidae

• Genus: Creobroter

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🌿 Appearance & Behaviour

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• A small, agile species with green wings marked by a distinctive yellow “eye” pattern.

• Females are slightly larger and more vividly coloured; males tend to be slimmer with subtler tones.

• Known for aggressive mimicry, often posing among flowers to ambush pollinating insects.

• More prone to cannibalism than some other flower mantises, especially as juveniles.

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Feeding Behaviour in the Wild and in Captivity

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In the wild, Creobroter gemmatus are specialist ambush predators, relying on stillness, camouflage, and lightning‑fast reflexes. They position themselves on the tops of grasses, shrubs, and flowering plants, remaining motionless until an unsuspecting insect drifts within range.

 

Their natural prey includes mosquitoes, small pollinators, and a variety of flying insects that venture too close to their perch. This sit‑and‑wait strategy is highly efficient, allowing them to conserve energy while taking advantage of the constant movement found in tropical shrublands and forest edges.

 

In captivity, their feeding behaviour becomes even more apparent. Creobroter are exceptionally food‑responsive, often striking at anything that moves within their field of view. This makes them one of the easier species to feed, as they readily accept a wide range of prey items. Flies and small roaches are particularly suitable, offering the right balance of movement and size to trigger a strong feeding response.

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Their bold, enthusiastic feeding style not only makes them entertaining to keep but also ensures they maintain excellent condition when offered an appropriate variety of prey

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Feeding & Understanding Hunger in Praying Mantises

 

Praying mantises do not follow a fixed feeding schedule. Their metabolism is driven almost entirely by temperature, which means their need for food naturally rises and falls with their environment. The only reliable way to judge whether your mantis needs feeding is by assessing the abdomen.

 

A flat-bodied mantis is ready to eat.

 

If you can clearly see the membrane between the abdominal segments on the underside, the mantis is full and should not be offered more food. Overfeeding can lead to abdominal ruptures, which are often fatal, so feeding based on body condition—not routine—is essential.

 

Feeding Method

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Some feeders, such as locusts and cockroaches, are best offered with tongs, one at a time. Leaving them loose in the enclosure can cause unnecessary stress, especially if the mantis is preparing to moult or simply not hungry. Any uneaten prey should be removed after a few hours.

 

Male vs Female Feeding Needs

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Adult males naturally eat far less than females. It’s normal for them to go days or even weeks without accepting food, and occasional refusal is nothing to worry about. Females, however, require more nourishment—fertile or not, they still develop oothecae, which demand significant protein to produce

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Temperatures and Humidity;

 

Creobroter gemmatus is a remarkably adaptable species when it comes to humidity, but it tends to thrive most visibly at around 70%. Maintaining a temperature of 25–27 °C during the day works beautifully, with a gentle drop at night to mimic natural conditions.

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They will tolerate short‑term fluctuations of a few degrees either way, but keeping them within this range consistently results in more active, confident, and well‑coloured individuals.

 

Enclosure;

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Googling the enclosure size for any mantis will give you the same result every time. 3 x the length of the mantis = height of the enclosure, 2 x = width of the enclosure. This would be adequate if it were an empty tank, but as I’m sure you will be placing substrates inside, this may affect the moulting ability of your mantis, so I would always suggest 4x the length and not 3x

These sizes work out for every mantis at any age, thus making the answer easy for all.

 

Before your mantis gains adult size, avoid decorating or planting out your enclosure too heavily. i.e., you shouldn’t have anything in the way when moulting is underway.

Mantises also require a mesh lid so they may hook on and hang from the top when they moult. If this is not provided, your mantis will attempt to moult in places that could result in a bad moult, which often results in death or missing limbs, or other external or internal damage.

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Breeding;

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Despite their reputation for being feisty, Creobroter gemmatus are surprisingly straightforward to breed when paired with care and attention. A spacious mesh enclosure—with or without a perching stick—is perfectly adequate, provided the female is well fed beforehand. This species tolerates the presence of flies during pairing, which can help keep the female occupied and reduce the risk of aggression.

Always supervise introductions closely. Even a calm female can turn unpredictable, and being present allows you to separate them quickly and try again later.

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Timing & Readiness

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• Females are typically receptive at 3–4 weeks, though slightly older females tend to be more settled and less reactive.

• Males usually require 10+ days after their final moult before they will confidently attempt a mounting.

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If the male shows no interest within 30 minutes, it’s best to separate them and try again the following day—he may simply not be ready.

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Mating Behaviour

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Once the male successfully mounts, he may remain in place for 5–12 hours. When finished, he will usually fly off, and this moment can be risky. If he startles or irritates the female, she may attack, so staying nearby is essential for his safety.

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Laying;

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After a successful pairing, a well‑fed female will typically lay her first ootheca within 3–10 days. In the wild, Creobroter gemmatus deposit their oothecae on tall, sturdy grasses or thin branches, forming a long, toothpaste‑like ribbon along the stalk.

 

Fresh oothecae are creamy white, gradually darkening as they cure.

Across her lifetime, a healthy female may produce 6–12 oothecae, with clutch size and fertility varying depending on her age and condition.

 

 

Ootheca Care & Hatching

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Within the hobby, their oothecae (“ooths”) are best incubated at:

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• Humidity: 70–80%

• Temperature: 25–30 °C

• Incubation time: 5–6 weeks

• Expected hatch: 30–40 nymphs (average)

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Setting Up the Incubation Container

 

Ooths can be gently removed after laying and placed into 32 oz pots. Attach the ootheca to the mesh lid using a tiny dab of superglue or a small piece of Blu Tack—just enough to hold it securely without covering the ooth surface.

 

Line the bottom of the pot with 1–2 cm (½″) of damp coco fibre or sphagnum moss. Maintain warmth and light moisture to keep the internal environment stable at 25–30 °C. Under these conditions, the ooth should hatch within 4–6 weeks of being laid.

 

Hatch Day Care

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A newly hatched ootheca typically releases around 25–40 nymphs, all of which emerge extremely thirsty. Provide water by lightly misting the mesh lid only, allowing tiny droplets to form where the nymphs can safely drink.

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Do not spray directly into the pot. Large droplets on the walls or substrate can trap or drown first‑instar nymphs

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Early Nymph Behaviour & First Feeding

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Contrary to popular belief (and what Google often claims), newly emerged nymphs are not ready to hunt immediately. They hatch soft, pale, and highly vulnerable, avoiding confrontation until their bodies harden. This process usually takes 2–3 days, and only after this period do they require external food.

 

There is no rush to separate this species at hatch. When provided with light misting and appropriate food, they can remain together in the incubation pot for several more days without issue.

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Feeding the First Instars

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• D. melanogaster (small fruit flies) are the ideal first food.

• After their first moult, they can be upgraded to D. hydei if available.

 

When to Separate

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While Creobroter gemmatus nymphs are not especially cannibalistic at this stage, they are fast, clumsy, and prone to knocking into each other. This becomes dangerous when one nymph is moulting. For this reason, it’s best to separate them after around 5 days to prevent accidental injury.

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Potting Up Nymphs

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To house individual nymphs, 4‑oz (120 ml) deli pots work perfectly. Fit each pot with a mesh‑topped lid by cutting out the centre and clamping a piece of mesh between the lid and the rim to ensure good airflow.

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A make‑up pad placed at the bottom of the pot helps absorb excess moisture from misting and provides a stable source of humidity. This simple setup keeps conditions safe and consistent for early growth.